The swan dress Björk wore to the 2001 Oscars was delightfully provocative, even by the musician’s standards, especially when a large egg fell from it. Controversial at first, the design has now entered the pantheon of red carpet highlights.
Made by UK-based Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski for the KTZ label, the dress is the centerpiece of the exhibition.”Rebel: 30 years of London fashion”, which is scheduled to open on September 16 at the Design Museum in London.
Sponsored by the British brand Alexander McQueen—whose namesake rocked the museum scene in 2011 with his blockbuster “Wild beautyfirst at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, then at the Victoria & Albert Museum, the exhibition presents nearly 100 daring looks from the first or early collections of young designers.
Sam Smith at the 43rd BRIT Awards 2023 in a latex look by HARRI. Credit: LANDMARK MEDIA/Alamy Stock Photo.
Other stunning pieces from the show include a replica of Sam Smith’s inflatable latex suit, designed by HARRI’s Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai, son of a latex producer in India, which they wore to the BRIT Awards, as well than Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey Daley outfit. from her “Golden” music video, Russell Sage’s recycled Union Jack jacket that Kate Moss wore for British vogueand a sprawling Molly Goddard ruffled dress that went viral when Rihanna sported it.
The exhibition is a collaboration between the Design Museum and the British Fashion Council (BFC) to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NEWGEN programme, according to a statement. All the creators of the show have been supported by NEWGEN in their early career.
The swan dress was first unveiled at Pejoski’s NEWGEN show in London for Autumn/Winter 2001, where it was spotted by the Icelandic singer, who snagged it and, in addition to the Oscars, the has worn on the cover of his Vespertine album. The now-iconic dress has only been on public display twice before, both times in New York. Its inclusion in “Rebel” marks the first time it has been seen in the UK and in the city where it was conceived and created.
Model Fran Summers wears Spring/Summer 2019 Matty Bovan, with a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Rebecca Maynes.
The exhibition is organized into three parts: Art School, which shows how London’s art education system, including the renowned Central Saint Martins University, incubated individuality; Backstage Pass, where visitors can relive the frantic moments just before a fashion show; and Runway, where visitors can join the front row to watch six parades.
“Visitors are going to be amazed by the many instantly recognizable fashion items,” said Tim Marlow, Director and CEO of the Design Museum, “but we hope they will also be captivated by the breadth, depth, diversity and world – a classy talent who has emerged from the London fashion scene over the past three decades.
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