Artnet’s ongoing auction, Iconic worksfeatures career-defining photography from influential and daring creators, ranging from the classic shots of Helmut Newton to the bold, contemporary work of Zanele Muholi.
The sale also includes iconic photographs from the commercial photography industry, including images by Horst P. Horst, Annie Leibovitz and Steve McCurry that were originally produced for print publications. We spoke to Artnet’s Head of Photographs, Susanna Wenniger, about how these works represent profound artistic achievement while simultaneously satisfying a commercial practice – and contributed to artists’ long-standing struggle for photography to be considered an art, which has continued since the medium’s inception in the early 1800s.
Horst P. Horst, Mainbocher corset (1939)
Horst P. Horst, Mainbocher corset (1939). East. $30,000 to $50,000.
One of the first and most important fashion photographers in history, Horst P. Horst created decidedly modern photographs that draw inspiration from the surrealist movement. Mainbocher corset (1939) is Horst’s most famous work, and it was the last photograph he took in Paris before World War II. Viewed from the waist up and obscured by dramatic shadow, Horst’s model looks like a classic sculpture.
The image was originally published in French vogue in December 1939. There are two versions of the image: one with a loosened corset and the other tightened. The latter is shown here and was the version that appeared in vogue, as the original image with the loose corset was deemed too provocative for the time. The print in our sale is a rare platinum palladium large print from a small edition of 10. It stands out as one of the most important fashion images ever made, and is even directly referenced in Madonna’s music video from 1990 for his song. vogue.
Annie Leibovitz, Kate Moss (1999)
Annie Leibovitz, Kate Moss (1999). East. $20,000 to $30,000.
For her first foray into haute couture photography, Annie Leibovitz was approached by Anna Wintour in 1998 to shoot a series for American vogue on Sean Combs – then known as Puff Daddy – and Kate Moss in Paris. “I could never be a real fashion photographer” said Leibovitz in an interview with the New York Times. On the contrary, through her elaborate costumes and sets, Leibovitz sees herself as a “conceptual artist using photography.”
Leibovitz captured this image of Moss wearing an intricate Christian Dior couture headdress from Fall 1999 that appropriated the designs of the Hindu god Vishnu. While the accompanying article in vogue focuses on Puff Daddy’s taste for all things luxurious, this striking image of Moss stands out as the artistic highlight of the shoot. Moss dons bejeweled earrings and a headgear while staring mightily into the lens. A decade after its initial publication, this timeless image was jointly selected by Moss and James Danziger for the Kate Moss Portfoliopublished in an edition of 30.
Annie Leibovitz, Keith Haring, New York (1986)
Annie Leibovitz, Keith Haring, New York (1986). East. $40,000 to $60,000.
Annie Leibovitz’s practice as a self-proclaimed conceptual artist is embodied in her unconventional photographs of other artists, such as her iconic celebration of Keith Haring, pictured here. Leibovitz was commissioned by a Florida magazine to capture images of pioneering artist Keith Haring in 1986. Although the images were not released, since the magazine folded soon after, the collaboration between Haring and Leibovitz testifies to the important relationship between the editorial and the fine. art. Once Leibovitz furnished an all-white living room of second-hand furniture, Haring painted a series of black graffiti in his signature style on the walls, the sofa, and finally on himself. The first time he painted his body, Haring first bleached only his torso. “When he came out of the dressing room, he was wearing white painter’s trousers”, said Leibovitz, “but it just seemed obvious to both of us at that point that he should paint the rest of him.” Although originally intended for commercial purposes, Leibovitz’s image is a powerful conceptual portrait of one of the most important artists of the 20th century and offers an enduring glimpse into the minds of Haring and Leibovitz as creators. .
Steve McCurry, Sharbat Gula, Afghan Girl, Pakistan (1984)
Steve McCurry, Sharbat Gula, Afghan Girl, Pakistan (1984). East. $12,000 to $18,000.
One of the most instantly recognizable photographic portraits of all time, Steve McCurry captured this mesmerizing shot while on assignment in Afghanistan to National geographic. Just like how Dorothea Lange Migrant mother humanized the Great Depression, McCurry’s image offered an important representation of the human toll caused by the conflict in Afghanistan.
This image is a powerful example of how a photographic image can initially serve a functional purpose, but then transcend its original intentions. The June 1985 cover of National geographic has a mona-lisa-esque intensity of both its compositional mystique and its art historical prominence.
Iconic works is now open for auction on Artnet until May 24. Browse the sale and place your bids.
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