Much of the art world revolves around questions of value, not only in terms of appraisals and price tags, but also: what is worth your time in These Times, as well as your energy? , your attention and, yes, your hard-earned money?
What calculations do you make to determine the meaning and value of something? What moves you? What enriches your life? In this new series, we ask individuals from the art world and beyond about the assessments they make on a personal level.
Jewelry is a kind of storytelling, decorative art for self-expression, said jewelry historian Levi Higgs.
Higgs, who is head of brand archives and heritage at David Webb Jewels, has a gift for language himself. The New York-based jewelry aficionado has amassed a devoted Instagram following, ranging from amateurs to connoisseurs, who voraciously consume posts of jaw-dropping trinkets and the stories behind them.
When it comes to the story, Higgs performs something of a magic trick, turning the often archival-woven world into a living, breathing experience rich in history, drama, style, and color. This professional work often intersects with the wider art world – Higgs is a wealth of knowledge about the representation and symbolism of jewelry in the fine arts – so when he emerges from the archives, Higgs is a familiar figure from the avant-gardes. premieres at auction houses and on the art fair circuit.
When it comes to his personal preferences for art and objects, Higgs believes in commissions and is passionate about the illustration world of 20th century American artist Maxfield Parrish. KAWS, on the other hand, could do without it.
But on the weekends, he leaves the city, opting for country getaways with his beloved pup Theo and his partner, enjoying nature and a good cup of tea. Recently we caught up with Higgs and talked about what he values in art and life – and why.
What’s the last thing you splurged on?
The last thing I splurged on was an ongoing project, a custom jewelry box designed and built by Richard Watson, a Massachusetts-based furniture design duo. I love the “long game” of having custom commissions created, and the dialogue we all had together got us down to the essence of what sums up the perfect jewelry box for me. I can’t wait to see it once it’s completely finished!
Courtesy of Levi Higgs.
What are you saving for?
I love supporting independent jewelers who are at the top of their game, so I have a few pieces that come in at the top of my ever-growing wish list. A Concentric Circle ring from Deborah Cadby in the UK and a green tourmaline Quad pendant from Jean Prounis in New York are currently under consideration.
What would you buy if you found $100?
Lots of loose leaf tea from Paquita in the West Village, and a new cup that I definitely don’t need.
What makes you feel like a million bucks?
Drive out of town upstate or spend a weekend in the woods to reset for a bit. Nature is super restorative for me, so walking through a nice, well-kept garden or doing a rigorous hike really makes me feel like my best self.
Courtesy of Levi Higgs.
What do you think is your greatest asset?
I hope it’s my continued curiosity in the field I’m in and my dedication to the career path I’ve created for myself. It’s far too easy to become jaded (pun intended) in any industry, but I always try to control myself and realize what a privilege it is to be surrounded by beautiful, important jewelry and their guards.
What do you appreciate most in a work of art?
I love storytelling in art. I am a big fan of the illustrative works of JC Leyendecker, Norman Rockwell and Maxfield Parrish. I also love the philosophy behind the Arts & Crafts movement, so William Morris does a lot for me. It might be too twee, but it’s kind of my wheelhouse.
Courtesy of Levi Higgs.
Who is an emerging artist worthy of everyone’s attention?
One of my favorite artists right now is a Dutch jeweler named Leen Heyne. He works with textured ribbons of gold that twist and squeeze gemstones, or simply tie on themselves in an elegant and effortless way. I have never seen anyone work gold this way before. It’s going to be around for a long time, and I’m so glad I slammed a ring sooner.
Who is an unknown artist who has not yet received his due?
In terms of jewelry, I would say Marilyn F. Cooperman. She passed away in 2020 and she was a design force that was never truly celebrated as much as she deserved. His work is colorful and bold, expertly done, and relatively affordable when auctioned. Keep an eye out!
What do you think is the most overrated thing in the art world?
Big shiny vinyl toys for adults. (KAWS)
Courtesy of Levi Higgs.
What is your most valuable asset?
My most prized possession is an original 1971 Van Cleef and Arpels Virgo pendant, jumbo size. It’s simply a solid gold disk with the zodiac imagery pressed on it like an ancient seal. It’s a powerful pendant that I wear when I want to lean on my most pristine attributes. But it was so hard to find, and they continue to be highly sought after and rare. It also helps that I found it for a song in a really satisfying way, and the value has skyrocketed lately. I cast into the universe that I was looking for one, and it found me. Nothing better than that.
Courtesy of Levi Higgs.
What was your best investment?
I recently picked up a Bisbee Turquoise ring from Native American jeweler Charles Loloma. It is sterling silver cast in tuff with gold claws and a beautiful rare vein of turquoise that can no longer be extracted. His work tends towards modernism, but also has strong foundations in the traditional craftsmanship of the Hopi people. He died in 1991, so his production is over. Her work is often grouped together at auction with artists like Alexander Calder and Art Smith, so I’m sure the value of this ring (which fits me perfectly and was meant to be) will only appreciate over time.
What is something small that means the world to you?
The easiest thing to do would be to keep mentioning jewelry, but I’m going to be a bit cheesy and say my Dachshund/Norwich Terrier mix Theo. My partner and I have had him since he was three months old, and this year he will be 11. I wanted to immortalize it by taking it to the Penumbra Foundation for a distinguished tintype session, but I haven’t had time yet. Soon!
Courtesy of Levi Higgs.
What’s not worth the hype?
Pay retail prices, for anything, but especially jewelry. I always advise friends and family to research what you want and have it custom made. There is of course a premium paid for custom work, but at least you are sure to get something that suits your needs rather than just a five X markup. Buy at auction and get to know the creators! You always get a better price when you’re in the inner circle.
What do you think is a good cause?
Sharing knowledge and helping bring others into the fold of often isolated industries. The world of jewelry can be daunting, but it’s an industry built on respect and reputation. Doors have been opened to me by many of my mentors and now friends, and continuing to help others on their own path is really important to me. I love being a conduit for networking and connection within this truly fascinating and scintillating world.
What do you aspire to?
To be a respected and authoritative voice and continually contribute original research to the annals of jewelry history. I have a few book ideas up my sleeve and would love to spend more time on them in the future. There’s a lot of opportunity for disruption (what a terrible term) in this space, but the fact is that the public LOVES jewelry exhibits and activations, so hopefully I can help that collective fascination in a really engaging way as we go. as my career unfolds. .
Follow Artnet News on Facebook:
Want to stay one step ahead of the art world? Subscribe to our newsletter to receive breaking news, revealing interviews and incisive reviews that move the conversation forward.
